Turning Down The Volume

 

What does surfboard volume mean?

 No, I’m not going to waste either your time going into some overly complicated explanation about what volume is. I am sure you read all about it back in, like, 2013 on The Inertia or in Surfer or something like that. It’s height X weight X width, it’s in liters, and it’s pretty complicated to figure out in a surfboard. Right, moving on.

            Taking it a step further, what does surfboard volume mean with regards to actually shaping surfboards? Well, not much really. It is a number that’s useful for the comparison of finished surfboards. To a surfboard shaper, volume will usually, at most, be a small number in the bottom screen of some CAD program that changes when you start clicking things. That’s about it.

            The more important thing to consider here is what volume definitely should not be. For any shaper, new or experienced, volume should not be a goal. Going into any shape with the intention of coming away with some particular end number in your head should not (necessarily) be your main objective.

             No matter what way you look at volume, it is actually not a design element of the board. Yes, you read this correct and would do well to forever commit it to memory; 

Volume is not a design element of a surfboard.  

Volume is merely the result of an equation. It is what you get when you add up all of the different components of a surfboard as a whole. I’m talking length, width, thickness, foil, concave, and even the weight of the glass job; i.e. the actual design elements that require much thought and planning when shaping a surfboard.

            So now that we’ve gone over what volume isn’t, it’s necessary to come back to a point I made earlier. Widespread use of volume measurement is relatively new in the surfboard building industry, but this doesn’t mean that it is just some sort of fad. It is a useful metric. It is actually an incredibly useful number to consider when comparing (and I deliberately reiterate the term) finished surfboards. The bottom line is that when it comes to a hydrodynamic vessel such as a surfboard, every little tiny detail that touches the water will affect the way a board rides. Some of them are micro features (think those tiny inevitable glassing defects, or a machine cut board that is slightly more sanded than an identically cut board) and others are major features (think, well just about anything you can actually see on a surfboard). 

The point being, even at the elite level of surfboard building, variation is inevitable. 

            So what does volume mean to you as a surfboard shaper? It should serve as a constant reminder that each element of your shape adds up, in one way or another, to every other element. Each pass of the planer you take or ounce of resin you pour onto a board should be done with every other step, previous or future, kept in mind on some level. No, volume should not be your end goal. Volume should just float somewhere in the back corner of your mind like some mystical reminder from some ridiculous shaman that everything has a purpose. Besides, if you’re really dying to know the true volume of your finished board, I’m sure you’ve got a displacement tank sitting around somewhere just dying to be filled up, right?

-Joey Estrada

Foam E-Z's fuNKy FieldTrip to Procam Surfboard Machine Shop

Well we headed out for our latest Foam E-Z fuNKy FieldTrip and ended up at Procam, CNC surfboard machine shop.  When we showed up there was foam everywhere, EPS and PU alike.  Huge billets of EPS to be cut into surfboards, SUPs, and paddleboards were stacked to the sky!  Tucker came out to greet us with his trusty watchdog Devo.  Tucker then brought us in to show us where the redwoods of paddleboards get cut.  There were fourteen foot blocks and huge paddle boards reaching to the roof.  I couldn't believe my eyes at the size of these EPS skyscrapers!  They cut these boards for some of the biggest names in the industry. 

Next we strolled over to the ware house next door.  This is where all the crazy high tech business goes on and where the owner Brian resides.  In his office are the computer masterminds that convert and write the programs to make their machines run smoothly.  Brian and good friend Robert Colby started Procam back in 1996.  With the computer age really blowing up, easy to use surfboard specific programs were created.  Shape 3D and AKU are the standards now and all shapers have to do is send their files over and Brian can cut their boards.  The result is, shapers have become programmers. 

Getting boards cut on the machine isn’t for everyone, but computer savvy shapers can really fine tune and reproduce a “magic” surfboard like never before.

Thanks Brian for having at your EPS redwood forest!

US Blanks Interview and Video

Shape Box 

Where: 6455 Industry Way, Westminster, CA 92683. Just outside of Huntington Beach and the hub of the surf industry.

Since: 1993

Contact: www.FoamEZcom  (714) 896-8233

Using US Blanks Since: 2007

Me and the Foam E-Z Crew

Foam E-Z was founded by Brad Nadell with the focus of supplying local shapers with board building materials. Over 20 years Foam E-Z has evolved and now supplies home builders worldwide via their eCommerce website. They have played an important role in Southern California’s board building culture and proudly bear the moniker of “The Original One-Stop Surfboard Supply Shop”. We sat down with Brad to hear about Foam E-Z history.

US Blanks: How did you get started in the business?

Brad Nadell: I grew up in Seal Beach in the early 80’s. We surfed Southside a lot and then we’d all hang out at Harbour Surfboards, guys like Tim Stamps, Chas Wickwire, Marty Thomas, Chad Wells, Dave Sauers, Ryan Simmons, Mike Morgan, Chris Sardelis, just to name a few, I could go on. So growing up around Harbour Surfboards I got to see the process of building a board from blanks being delivered by Clark Foam to Rich shaping them to the boards being laminated. So I started sweeping up around the shop, just to be around the scene. Then eventually I started “air-spraying” boards, that’s kind of where I made my niche at Harbour. I painted boards for 8 years until I was in

my 20’s.

Southside Seal Beach 83'

US Blanks: How did you transition from Harbour to Foam E-Z?

Brad: My good friend Steve Adler, may he rest in peace, presented me with an idea to supply the local shapers with blanks. At the time he had The Surfboard Factory which was super popular. This area of Westminster was a real hotbed for shaping. Guys like Mark Pesce, Chas, A-39, Poi Dog, there was a lot of big up and coming shapers around here. As a matter of fact, they were all shaping out of The Surfboard Factory, so we started supplying them all with blanks. Steve’s business was growing and he was busy with his glass shop so I ended up buying him out of the business. Since then Foam E-Z has evolved quite a bit. It used to be just focused on supplying commercial shapers, but there has been an increasing trend of home builders and so we’ve focused a lot of our efforts of education and supplying them with all the materials they need.

US Blanks: Seems like a logical transition. There was a need in the market and you’ve been able to adapt and fill that need. How do you define Foam E-Z today?

Brad: Foam E-Z today has grown a lot. We’re a worldwide supplier of foam, cloth, tools, basically everything you need to build a board. Obviously the DIY (Do It Yourself) builder, the home builder, has grown. More people care about how there board is made or want to learn about construction so we’re really happy to provide education and help people along with the process. And we recently built a shape room that people can rent out, which is fully stocked with tools. We have very good instructors. It’s been fun to see all the people who are interested in board building. We have Father and Sons coming in to build boards together. We can make personalized lams. We get the board glassed for you. We provide ding repair, shipping, pretty much everything. We still supply the industry as well, but that’s not our sole focus any longer.

Customer Service

US Blanks: Why do you use US Blanks?

Brad: Well, I chose US Blanks right when they started. I had relationships established with the the key people, whom previously worked at Clark Foam so I kind of put all my trust in them and had faith that they would be able to translate the superior quality of Clark into their new brand. And so far they've really nailed it. Their efficiently is key. The quality is great. They stand behind their product. I've always asked for feedback from shapers and customers and I always get positive feedback. They just provide me everything I need to be successful selling surfboard blanks. And the fact that they are made here in the USA is a huge slam dunk for us. That’s important to us. And lastly, they just do what they say, which is really important. I trust them and if I’m on a deadline, they always come through.

US Blanks: Awesome. Anything else you’d like to include? How can people find you?

Brad: www.FoamEZ.com has all our important information, but we’ve enjoyed growing our Instagram lately. It’s given us a new way to communicate with customers around the world and give them insight into some of the fine details of what goes on here. They can follow us @foamez. Also, we’ll be celebrating our 20^th anniversary this year. We’re throwing a huge party with food and tons of free giveaways and pro surfers and shapers. It’ll be sometime in March so please follow us to get the exact date and time.

US Blanks: Excellent. We’ll be there! Thanks, Brad.

Are You a Super Shredder?

I only have one questions for you, "Are you a super shredder?" Masayoshi Takanaka is, and here's the video to prove it. We here at Foam E-Z like fun, interesting, weird, and progressive surfboards. I'm not sure how this board will surf with a big hole in the middle of it, but it's pretty rad to see the craftsmanship that went into this instrument of the ocean and stage. I personally prefer less nose rocker, but then again, I can't wail out a tune on my surfboard like Masayoshi can. Enjoy!

Green Foam Recycled Blanks at Foam E-Z!

Green Foam Recycled Blanks are here! Were happy to be carrying the latest
product from U.S. Blanks. Green Foam blanks are made from recycled rigid polyurethane foam waste produced in manufacturing surfboards it is then reintroduced back into the parent product.



We’ve had the opportunity to shape up a few and have been very pleased with the
results, so now were stocking them for all of you! We are excited to see our
quality selection of “green” products grow and be put to the test by you, our customers. If you have any questions or comments just call us up and we’d be happy to chat about any one of our environmentally friendly products from U.S. Blanks, Marko Foam, and Entropy Bio Resins.

Peace!

Board Building in Prison!!!

One of my favorite things about being involved in the surf industry/working at Foam E-Z is meeting and getting to know new people, all kinds of people, from all different walks of life. Recently we have been selling board building supplies to an inmate at Pilot Rock State Prison in Crestline, California named Tony “Neptune” Stearns. This guy has gone through some rough times and made some poor decisions and has been in prison since 2001. One good decision he made was to turn his life around and do something positive with his time in prison and try to actively get involved in his rehabilitation. I have spoken to Tony a few times on the phone and the guy sounds amped about board building and his rehabilitation. I’m looking forward to more updates from “Neptune” and even meeting him soon in person to discuss his boards and board building in general. If anyone would like to contact him I know he would be stoked. You can send letters to him at:

Tony Stearns T-43417
P.O. Box 10
Crestline, CA 92325

This isn't the first time Foam E-Z has supplied prisoners with the supplies to build the board of their dreams. In the mid-nineties we were contacted by three Hawaiian inmates that were doing hard time in a Federal Penitentiary in Minnesota. We have pics and letters from them which we will elaborate on in a future post.

Keep up the good work Neptune. We're here for you!

Grizzley

NEW SUP Board Building Kits!!!

For those of you that want to build your own SUP we have created complete board building kits. There are three sizes available in two different models, Surf and Flat Water. The Surf Series come in 9’, 9’6”, 10’ and the Flat Water Series comes in 10’, 10’6”, 11’. These sizes and shapes cover the range for most people and conditions.


The SUP Surf Series blanks are professionally computer designed and cut on a CNC machine out of White Hot EPS Foam. These SUP Surf blanks/boards are progressive and made to surf on, therefore they won't paddle as well as the Flat Water SUP's. All designs are proprietary Foam E-Z designs with the help of established shapers to make sure these "cut blanks" are truly original and legitimate. The blank is cut close to the finished product thus your shaping process has been simplified to blending the nose/ tail, sanding the blank smooth, and a few minor details. The blanks are designed so the customer can adjust the tail shape and certain dimensions if necessary.
SUP Board Building Kits come with all the highest quality materials/supplies to build your very own SUP. Includes: Professionally computer cut EPS blank, Resin Research CE Epoxy 3 gal Kit, 6ozx38" Fiberglass Cloth, Future EA Vector II or FCS M-5 Sidebite Production Set , 10.5" White Fin Box, 8.5" Future SUP Surf Fin, White Leash Cup, Vent Plug, Logo Paper, SUP Leash, and SUP Deck Traction. TOOLS OR INSTRUCTIONS NOT INCLUDED!



The SUP Flat Water Series blanks are professionally computer designed and cut on a CNC machine out of White Hot EPS Foam. These SUP Flat Water blanks/boards are thicker and wider making them float and paddle better than the Surf Series Sup's. All designs are proprietary Foam E-Z designs with the help of established shapers to make sure these "cut blanks" are truly original and legitimate. The blank is cut close to the finished product thus your shaping process has been simplified to blending the nose/ tail, sanding the blank smooth, and a few minor details. The blanks are designed so the customer can adjust the tail shape and certain dimensions if necessary.
SUP Board Building Kits come with all the highest quality materials/supplies to build your very own SUP. Includes: Professionally computer cut EPS blank, Resin Research CE Epoxy 3 gal Kit, 6ozx38" Fiberglass Cloth, 10.5" White Fin Box, 10" Future SUP Flat Water Single Fin, White Leash Cup, Vent Plug, Logo Paper, and SUP Deck Traction. TOOLS OR INSTRUCTIONS NOT INCLUDED!

Prices for complete kits range from $855 to $875. Each kit has a lead time of two weeks. Upgrade Kit with a C-4 One Piece Fiberglass Paddle 8.5" Blade for additional $217.00! To place an order or for any other questions please email Sales@FoamEZ.com or call the shop at 714.896.8233.

Sacred Craft Shaping Demo at the Hurley US Open

There is nothing better than hanging out with 125,000 of your closest friends at the U.S. Open presented by Hurley. Major props goes out to Hurley for putting this whole thing together and bringing back all-stars like Slater, Fanning, Machado, and Irons. This event dwarfed past years in action, size, half-naked girls, entertainment value, skate/bike/shaping demos, and….half naked girls. Everyone was rallying behind local boy Brett Simpson in the final vs. Mick Fanning. The energy was positive and people were hooting and cheering at every wave whether it was Fanning or Simpo. When it was all over Simpson prevailed in his hometown to the tune of $100K in prize money.

That wasn’t the only action though. There were the usual raffles, and giveaways as well as retail buildings they erected with full on air conditioning. The stand out this year was the Sacred Craft Shaping Demo. Scott Bass and the boys set up a shaping booth inside an air conditioned tent for the shapers to do shaping demos on the sand right in the middle of all the craziness. Along with the help of U.S. Blanks and us (Foam E-Z) they were able to work through and explain the shaping process to onlookers. I was able to catch John Carper doing his thing and it was really to cool to not only see what he was doing but to also hear him explain his movements. It was very special since the inside of a shaper’s bay is a very private place. This is where secrets are kept and ideas are formed, therefore to be able to see a real pro going at it was a great treat for everyone. Carper really wowed the crowd when he broke out a chainsaw to cut out the outline. Other legendary shapers on hand for the demo were; Bill Stewart, Maurice Cole, Doc Lausch, Darren Handley, Pat Rawson, and local HB legend surfer/shaper Robert August. So as you can see this was quite a display of history, skill, and craftsmanship.

Not sure if I mentioned it but there were Half Naked Girls everywhere!! By the end of the event people were ready for more. The pros and spectators agreed that they can’t wait to see what will happen next year.

Reported by Grant Ramey
Pics by Jeff Holtby

Legendary Hobie Shaper, Terry Martin Shapes it up on video!

TSJ | POV - "Terry Martin and the perfect 40-minute board" from The Surfer's Journal on Vimeo.

This is a great viewing of legendary Hobie shaper Terry Martin shaping up a traditional longboard. He starts with a US Blanks 9-3Y as his canvas and works his Skil 100 planer over the blank. Those old planers just eat up the foam like no other.

Having started shaping wood as a lad in '50s San Diego, on through to shaping sleek Phil Edwards Models, to the now - where he finds himself an in-demand builder of boards of all denominations for Hobie- Terry Martin is the consummate craftsman. In this short video, Terry shapes a perfect traditional noserider, talking us through his philosophy and technique as he works.

Enjoy the video, we hope it provides some insight to your shaping experience.

Brad

International Surfing Day!

Ever needed a legitimate excuse to go surfing? Well, on June 20, 2009 you finally have it, International Surfing Day. Created by Surfing Magazine five years ago, this unofficial, official surfers' holiday gives us a chance to promote and celebrate the sport while bringing awareness to the state of our oceans and beaches. The goal is simple, take the day off or at least part of the day to go out and catch a wave or three and... while you're at it...help cleanup your favorite beach. In conjunction with the Surfrider Foundation, Surfing Magazine will be organizing a a handful of official beach cleanups. If there isn't an official beach cleanup in your neighborhood don't let it stop you from beautifying your own stretch of sand!

What are you doing tomorrow for International Surfing Day Saturday 2009? We'll be down in Huntington State Beach (North Side of River Jetties) from 8am to 1pm, along with a number of other surfing enthusiasts! Come down and join us there will be plenty of swag given away, refreshments, surf music, sun, and fun.

Some of the participants setting up tomorrow are: Foam E-Z, Future Fins, Harbour Surfboards, Van's Shoes, Katin Surf Shop, Greek Surfboards, Surfline, Monster Energy Drinks, Surfing Magazine, The Sierra Club, and many more. So as you can see it will be a great day to kick off the summer.

Hope to see you there!

Brad

UV Resin Now in Stock at Foam E-Z!

We're now stocking the UV Cure Resin Lam/Sanding in quarts and pints and will soon have it available in gallons. The keys to this resin is that it has an unlimited working time therefore making it easy to conserve resin. Basically you apply indoors and when you've worked out all the bubbles or what have you just walk the board outside. It will harden in a matter of minutes!

Check out this short video for an example of a board being lammed with UV Cure Resin:



There are a few tricks so don't treat it exactly like the traditional MEKP catalyzed resin. Use a small amount of MEKP catalyst when applying your logo to the board. "Flash it" when hotcoating, this means to walk it out side for a minute then bring it back for the wax to rise, then bring it back outside to fully harden. This resin can be used directly from the can since UV resin hardens when exposed to sunlight therefore it doesn't need to be mixed. If no UV source is available MEKP Catalyst must be used to cure the resin. There more tips and full directions on the back of each can.

This stuff is the best for ding repair, you just can't beat the speed in which you can do a repair correctly.

Check it out and let us know what you think.

Brad

NEW EZ CALIPER FOR 2009!!!!

We just received our order of the updated version of the EZ Caliper. It has been updated and improved for 2009! It is direct reading, resulting in one handed operation affording the shaper the opportunity to get a measurement instantly. Measure 0 to 7", the scales are computer generated to insure accuracy.

The EZ Caliper 09 is manufactured of high quality Baltic Birch plywood for lightweight, stability, and durability. The great thing is the new calipers didn't go up in price as a matter a fact they're 10% off while supplies last ($74.95).

Come by and check them out or call us with any questions.

Publish Post

Look forward to seeing you soon.

SHAPING BOX RENTAL PRICES

Here's the rates for renting "The BOX":

$30.00/board up to 3 hours *
$6.00 each additional 30 minutes *
$55.00 for entire day 11am-5pm (6 hours) *

*Starter Tool Kit included (David Top Plane, Spokeshave, 10.5" Surform, 5.5" Surform, Fred Tool, Hand Saw, HD Foam Shaping Block, C-Caliper, Tape Measure, Goggles)

Bring Your Own Tools or rent our Tool Kits! Rent the tools before you buy!

Available hours: Monday thru Friday 11am-5pm


Buy or Bring:
Dust Mask
Sand Screen
Sand Paper



Call 714.896.8233 or email Support@FoamEZ.com for for additional information or details.

Look forward to seeing you soon!

THE E-Z SHAPING BOX “Shape in the Box to think out of the box!”

We’re happy to announce that Foam E-Z is now offering a shaping facility to rent.

About two months ago, we purchased a 20ft high cube container with a shaping bay built inside of it. We completely refurbished the shape room with new electrical, paint, and added a Clark Foam Vacuum System that sits outside the bay. The room is equipped with 8ft fluorescent lights, shelves, vacuum system, fan ventilation, and professional style E-Z Shaping Racks (fixed to the floor). The room dimensions are 15'-5" long x 7’ wide x 8’ high. The Foam E-Z Shaping Box is a fully functional and professional shaping bay located directly behind Foam E-Z. It is completely insulated and ventilated helping it remain comfortable during your shaping experience.

We wanted to give the E-Z Shaping Box a good once over, so we invited Tim Stamps of www.SurfboardsbyStamps.com to give it a test drive. His goal was to hand shape RadRob, Foam E-Z star employee, a new 5-8 Quantum Quad Fish. “It’s the classic Twin Keel revved up a bit. I added more nose rocker, pulled the nose in, thinned out the rails, and of course added a Quad fin set up. Slight concave through the center with subtle double concaves running through the fins. This all adds up to a super fast, very positive board.”

Tim brought a few of his “special” tools and used some of ours in his attempt to make the room feel like home. He plugged his Skil 100 into our vacuum system and started mowing into a 6-2A US Blank (new red foam). After 2 hours of shaping and a 20 minute pizza break (thanks to Kiri at Perry’s Pizza) RadRob’s board was finished. Check out the video for the full experience.

Stamps says: “It was the next best thing to home! I give it a 5 out of 5 shakas.”

The shaping box is now available for anyone to rent. So if you’re sick of shaping in your garage, using your trash cans as racks, or if you’ve wanted to start shaping but don’t have a place to do it, we now have the answer for you. The “Box” is for rent by the board or by the day (Monday thru Friday 11-5pm) and comes complete with all the tools necessary to Shape Your Own Board (S.Y.O.B.). ***Additional tools available for rent. This is your chance to test out the tools before you buy them. Call 714.896.8233 or email Support@FoamEZ.com for more information. “Shape in the Box to think out of the box!”

Here's the rates for renting "The BOX":

$30.00/board up to 3 hours *

$6.00 each additional 30 minutes *

$55.00 for entire day 11am-5pm (6 hours) *

*Starter Tool Kit included (David Top Plane, Spokeshave, 10.5" Surform, 5.5" Surform, Fred Tool, Hand Saw, HD Foam Shaping Block, C-Caliper, Tape Measure, Goggles)

Bring Your Own Tools or rent our Tool Kits! Rent the tools before you buy!

Available hours: Monday thru Friday 11am-5pm

Buy or Bring:
Dust Mask
Sand Screen
Sand Paper

Cool Surfboard Shaping Video with Tim Stamps

Tim Stamps grew up in Seal Beach and learned his skills under the legendary Rich Harbour of Harbour Surfboards. Tim worked almost every job at Harbour until he finally became Rich's right hand man. After years of shaping at Harbour, Stamps moved on to work on his own label. Designing and customizing is Tim's specialty, shaping all types of surfboards is his niche. Since he is a one man operation, working out of Westminster (down the street from Foam E-Z), Tim is able to have the utmost of quality control. Tim has shaped boards for some of the best surfers in the world. Check out his website for more information www.surfboardsbystamps.com

Seal Beach Surfing Championships 09

The 2009 Seal Beach Surfing Championships was held this past weekend. The two day affair was hosted by the Seal Beach Lifeguards, and headline sponsored by Katin Surf Shop and Vintage Cotton. The contest brought together surfers from all walks of life; Seal Beach locals, to contest pro's, and groms surfing in there first contest. There were plenty of cool booths to check out as well. Harbour Surfboards was there showing off their FIFTY Year Anniversary Surfboard, Matt Bettis (Bettis surfboards) and Aloha Glassing had a large selection of boards to check out. Jeremy Labreau, who got started at Foam E-Z a few years ago, also had a variety of boards on display and he surfed in the men's open longboard and open shortboard competition. Of course we (Foam E-Z) were there with a booth filled with blanks and products for people to peruse. Some lucky people also won stuff from our free raffle. It was a great time filled with cool people and great surfing!

Guy Okazaki is at it again!

Guy Okazaki always seems to find himsself on the silver screen or at least You Tubes version. This is a groovy little video with some shaping footage by a true Venice legend. Guy has a been a great customer at Foam E-Z for over ten years. Spending time between Californina and Hawaii for many decades has contributed to Guys evolution of shaping from the beginning of the shortboard era in the late 60's. Check out his website
http://www.guyokazaki.com/ for more info.

Dingy Thingy - Fixing Your Stick the Right Way!

Dingy Thingy – Fixing Your Stick the right way
by Adam Wright www.socalsurf.com

If you are like me then you probably have at least attempted to repair your board at some point during your surfing lifetime. It seems so easy...just mix a little of this, a little of that, a little sanding and viola you are ready to get back in the water. Riiiiiight, things are never that easy...I don't know about you but when I was first starting to fix dings I would generally turn my board into a total cluster-f*@k of a sticky, itchy mess that has very little to do with being watertight and is more about making your board more ugly than it was before, as well as ruining your clothes at the same time.

I am not sure where the breakdown usually occurs in the process...maybe it is the sudden time crunch you feel when you drop the catalyst into the resin and everything starts to heat up...maybe it is just the fact that none of the materials seem to work well together until they bond up in the final product...maybe it is just the pure stickiness of the resin that seems to get on everything. All I know is that if there is a way for something to go wrong it probably will.


magic potion

Anyway enough about my incompetency (actually I am not too bad at ding-repairs now that I have been doing them for 15 or so years)...I figured that there a lot of you out there interested
trying it for yourself or at least learning what is the proper way to make a repair. I probably could have walked you through some sort of retarded fix myself but I figured that it we should probably talk to an expert who has done this for a living. So I went to Brad Nadell over at Foamez.com to see if he could help walk us through a ding-repair.

There are a lot of different places you can accidentally munch your board, some of which are pretty difficult to fix...so in the interest of everyone's sanity (and our outer layer of skin that we can potentially lose) we thought it would be best if we start with a relatively simple repair.

So here is the scenario...you have been out surfing at Lowers, ripping (like you usually do), and after a long session you head to the beach to hang out with your hot swimsuit model girlfriend (or boyfriend...if you swing that way). As you belly across the inside cobbles at low tide you feel that gut-wrenching crunch as your board bottoms out on a particularly sharp rock. After doing the ankle-snap dance to the beach you see a nice big hole in your bottom deck. You being the handi-capable person that you are decide to fix the board yourself.

I actually let Brad smack a hole in the bottom deck of my board so that we could walk through the repair...though I think he got a bit of evil satisfaction taking the hammer to my thruster.


Hmm...that rock was surprisingly shaped like a hammer.


So here are the steps...they break down into three stages that sound easier than they actually are: Prep, Glassing, and Sanding

Stage 1 - Prep

1. Set up your workplace - Having a large enough area to work is important since you may need to walk around the board to get at it from different angles. Ideally your workspace will have some shade and will be well ventilated. Also remember that the resin can make a horrible mess so make sure you are either doing the repair over some sort of floor covering or an area that you don’t mind trashing. (like next to your beat up Camaro that you have on blocks in the dead grass of your front yard).

2. Plan out the repair in your head - It is good to have a battle plan thought out before you actually put the tools on the board or activate the resin. Think about the steps you need for the repair...will you need to fill the hole with q-cell? Will you need to have a couple of sheets of glass?
What sort of finish do you want the board to have when you are done? Do you need pigment for the resin? These are the sorts of questions that you need to address before starting.

3. Lay out your tools and materials - Get out everything that you will need for your repair. Make sure you have enough.

For this repair we actually were doing the repair in a glassing/painting/shaping bay at Tim Stamps factory. Below is a list of the materials that we used...(if you click the links you can actually order these products from the Foamez.com online store...see isn't that handy!)...actually I hope this doesn’t come off like an advertorial, Brad and the gang were super cool to donate their time, expertise, and materials for this story…and since I am a big fan of supporting surfer-labor I thought that linking up their products would be a nice way to thank them. Show 'em some love if you need a board fixed.

a. Q-Cell (hollow microspheres, you mix it with the resin to create filler)
b. Squeegee
c.Laminating Resin
d. Surfacing Agent (turns lam-resin into sanding resin)
e. UV Activated Catalyst
f. Mixing Buckets
h. Tacky Glue (for sticking sanding pads on the sander)
i. Resin Brushes
j. White Pigment
k. Sandpaper (80-100 grit for prep/repair...then 220-300+ for the final sanding)
l. Mixing Sticks
m. Rubber Gloves (please turn your head and cough)
n. Fiberglass cloth (not pictured)
o. Mask/Respirator (not pictured)

p. FlexPad sanding pad (not pictured)

4. Prepping the Ding - Once you have your workstation, tools and materials in place you can finally get to work. First thing is that you want to get the ding in shape so that the repair materials will bond properly with your board. You start by sanding the area with 80-100 grit paper. You need to be a little gentle in this process so you don't end up sanding away healthy parts of your board. Ideally you are going to want to sand a slightly concave bowl around the ding...so the ding is the deepest section of the bowl and it gets progressively more level to the deck of the board as you move further away from the ding. (This will let us layer in fiberglass for the repair...so the patch will hold and we can get the bottom deck to be flush when we are done sanding.) It is best to take this part slowly...you can make the mistake of sanding too much...or not sanding enough...both can be problematic.

Once the sanding is done you pull out any broken fiberglass so that you can get the filler to actually touch the foam core.



5. Cutting Fiberglass Cloth - Next you want to measure out some fiberglass so that you can properly cover the hole and the slight depression that you just sanded into the board. 4oz cloth is usually enough for a repair...particularly if you are going to be layering extra-cloth to create the patch.



We actually used three circles...each one bigger than the next...to create the patch that we would be glassing over the filled hole.





Stage 2 - Glassing (AKA sticking to things)

A few notes on this stage of the ding-repair

For this repair we used a cool product that Brad had brought along...I don't know the specific name... but basically it is a UV activated catalyst...sort of like what you would see in other solar-ding-repair kits but you can drop this catalyst into standard laminating resin and as long as you stay out of the sunlight it won't trigger the chemical reaction that causes resin to set. This is particularly sweet because it gives you time to work with the resin...getting the ding or glass job properly set before setting off the catalyst. Naturally this might not be the best set up if you don't have a shady place to fix your board...if that is the case you will want to stick with the standard resin/catalyst that activates shortly after the two chemicals are mixed.
*** There are a few catches with the UV Catalyst; when using it with Q-Cell filler, pigmented resin, or under lams you must add a bit of regular MEKP Catalyst since the UV rays cannot adequately reach the resin to activate it entirely.

Also...Brad pointed out that you want to know the difference between Laminating Resin and
Sanding Resin. So here is a quick little definition of the two resin types.

Laminating Resin - Lam resin is the "pure" stuff you want to use when you are trying to get the resin to stick to either the surfboard foam core, ding-filler, or to other patches of rough sanded, already set, fiberglass. This stuff will eventually dry out and harden but it doesn't really lose the tacky, slightly rubbery feel. It also doesn't sand very well...you will always see the "cross hatching" of the fiberglass cloth as you rough-sand it.

Sanding Resin - Sanding Resin is actually almost like the Lam Resin but it has a few other chemicals, including paraffin wax & Styrene Monomer, that hardens into a smoother and
more ridged surface that is much more suited to the fine sanding that you need to do in order to do the final smooth-out of the ding-repair.

Ok with that out of the way...on to the repair.

1. Filling the hole - A big deep gouge, like the one that we put in my board, required us to use a little filler to create a plug that will stick to the foam of the surfboard and at the same time provide a stable sticky platform for the fiberglass cloth that we will use to patch the hole later.

You might be able to get away with just dribbling laminate resin in a smaller ding or crack but when the ding is big enough that the patching glass can bend or dip it is a good idea to paste in some filler before starting the glass work.

To fill this ding we used Q-cell which you mix into the laminating resin.



2. Mixing the Q-Cell - Creating the resin/q-cell mix is sort of an art...there is no hard and fast mixing ratio. You start by mixing the resin and catalyst together and then adding q-cell until it gets to the thickness/tackiness that you need for it to stay in the ding (similar thickness to preschool paste). You may also want to add some pigment so that the filler plug doesn't look bright green/see-through. We added a touch of white to this repair.




The filler should be malleable enough to spread around but it shouldn't drip a ton. For a ding like the one in the flat part of the bottom deck the filler can be a little thin...but a repair on the rail or
the nose you might need the filler to be almost like super soft play-dough. Or that gummy bear that has been in my pocket all afternoon and it nice and squishy.

3. Filling the hole (didn't I have a section titled that already?)

This part is pretty easy. Take filler. Fill hole.



Smooth filler to the top of the foam.



4. Placing the Patch

Ok now that you have the filler in place you take the lovely fiberglass circles that we cut out earlier and place them on top of the filler...ideally before the filler has set.



Start with the smallest circle of cloth (the size of the hole)...then follow with the next biggest size until all of them are placed.



5. Apply the Lam Resin (without the q-cell filler)

Now you apply the lam resin...we already had ours mixed with the UV filler...but if you are working without the UV component you will mix a separate cup of Lam Resin and drop in the catalyst to set it off.

Once mixed pour a fairly liberal amount onto the cloth patches.



And then take your squeegee and smooth the resin over the cloth...making sure that it saturates all of the cloth, and that you smooth out any air bubbles that might have formed.



6. Let the resin set (drink a beer, take a nap, or something)

For our repair we actually took the board out into the sun and let the UV light set off the catalyst. This UV technique actually really sped up the hardening process and the board was ready to be rough sanded in just a few minutes.



The hardened laminating resin will look something like this.




Stage 3 - Sanding (and some more glassing, then more sanding...damn are we done yet?)

1. Sanding the Lam Resin - Ok we are in the home stretch now. We start the sanding process by rough sanding the laminate resin and our patch.



Ideally you should use something like 100-150 grit paper to do this part. Don't get trigger happy though...just sand enough to take some of the rough parts off the lam resin. If you sand too much you might end up having to do some another patch job (I am speaking from my own
dumb-ass experience here).

2. Applying Sanding Resin - once you have the lam resin sanded then you mix up a batch of sanding resin to paint on over the repair. For our repair we used the same laminating resin that we had been using (the stuff with UV catalyst). We added a touch more catalyst and some surfacing agent which is basically the chemical cocktail that is mixed into Lam Resin to turn
it into Sanding Resin.



Using a brush, put on a thin coat that covers all of the repair area and laminating resin. Then let it harden (or in our case take it back out into the sun to cure).

3. Final Sanding - Once the sanding resin has set...bust out the sander again but this time use
increasing finer grit until you achieve the smoothness that your board originally had.



You should probably move up into the 220-320 grit paper fairly fast...andif you are looking for a super smooth finish...try and hit up some wet-sanding paper (generally above 800-grit) and hand sand it for the final polish.


Final Stage - Go Surf

Once the board is sanded, and water-tight, it is ready...though it is always good to give the patch a couple of extra days out of the water so that it can cure properly. Have fun shredding on your newly healed stick.
Adam Wright http://www.socalsurf.com/